Wadi Bonfire

Tonight we are having a wadi bonfire.. The moon is almost full and the part of Iraq I am in is experiencing spring. The white sand gives an odd, lunar feel to everything. The only life besides A few moths have been seen. Everything is so still though. The fire is the only thing making a sound out here. Even the jackals, who usually sound like Marines going "woo-hoo!", are not making a noise. It is the last night for one of my best co-workers. He is also a great friend.

The daily stress of Iraq is intense. Elections, corruption, terrorism, hope, rebuilding the country, foreign agendas and everything else takes its toll. But tonight it is just us and the bonfire. Peaceful, quite, and calm.

Peacful, Successful Elections in Anbar

Fears of attacks during the election were paralyzing many in Anbar province. Locals received warnings from AQI about attacks but most reports of possible attacks were spread by rumors. Coalition Forces along with Iraqi Army and Iraqi Police worked around the clock to ensure safety. The results were inconsevable: no attacks in Anbar. None. Al Qaeda in Iraq was proven impotent in the area that was there stomping ground from 2004 to 2006.

The threat is not gone though. Post-election violence is possible from the sore losers. AQI cells not rolled up still may continue the fight independent from the leadership that has long been cut off from. But for now Anbaries celebrate their right to vote and await the end of Iraqi Islamic Party dominance.

Kunyas: Nicknames that are Names

Catholicgauze writes in and discusses the lack of a proper naming system in the Middle East.

You may or may not know the word "kunya" but in one way or another you probably have already heard of a kunya. Educational materials on Arab culture or the Middle East will teach you that kunyas are honorific names/titles used by Arabs. What is generally taught is that someone named "Abu Umar" is the father of a child named Umar. "Umm Umar" would be the mother of Umar. Meanwhile an Ibn Thahr is the son of a Thahr.

All Catholicgauze can say is that is how the system was meant to work but no longer does (or in my sleep-deprived thinking, "Lies! Horrible Lies!). In today's modern Middle East the kunya has devolved into nicknames that can be used in place of true birth names on almost anything expect official government documents. People will take a kunya to tie themselves with popular historical figures, their profession, even favorite sports stars.

What is truly something else is one can have a kunya for certain situations. For instance, your friends may know you as "Abu Ahmad" after your son but your your co-workers may know you as "Abu Jindal" after the local soccer star. Surprisingly your family may not know you use the kunya Abu Jindal. So a co-worker could call your home, ask for an "Abu Jindal," and be told no one by that name lives there. Your co-workers may not know your true name so any attempts to reach you would end in vain right then and there.

Catholicgauze has encountered this problem already and plans on many more name searches. I can only imagine how people who live in the Middle East manage to work around this kunya problem.

The Socio-Economic Hierarchy of Iraqi Salesmen

Catholicgauze writes from Iraqi describing his thoughts on salesmanship

"Hello my friend!" "Yes, yes, yes." "Please come in."

Those words I hear often. Fortunately for me I now have a good reputation so the words now have meaning behind them, but every American who visits an Iraqi shop is likely to hear that. After hearing these words and seeing the various shops many times, I noticed there is a hierarchy of salesmen. This hierarchy correlates with the status of the Iraqi and reflects how the average American will view the seller.

Common Iraqi
Who: Anyone but tendency towards older couple, sometimes women
Goods: General, things found in the household
Where: Anywhere, sometimes along roads

Common Iraqis were the first to sell to Americans. These people simply set up a table and displayed all their stuff on a blanket. They offer nothing fancy but in their supply of plates, homemade blankets, etc. are a few pieces of gold jewelry, small handmade furniture, and old Iraqi army equipment. Common Iraqis speak little to no English but can communicate the necessary "ten dollars" and "thank you."

Iraqi Salesman
Who: Moderately educated person with a supply chain
Goods: Things like flags, blade weaponry, electronics, and ornamental goods.
Where: The skillful ones are found on American bases

The Iraqi salesman has thousands of years of Arab trader culture in his blood, a good supply chain, and a decent command of English. They can be very talkative and friendly if one wants to start a conversation. Iraqi salesmen frequently go on month long trips to American bases and send the money back home. Many have worked with both the American military and Iraqi government to allow shops to be placed on bases. Unfortunately, groups like Al Qaeda in Iraq hate these people as collaborators and I have heard of a few who were murdered in the past.

Iraqi DVD Pirate
Who: Younger males with Internet access and a DVD burner
Goods: DVDs of movies, television shows, and documentaries
Where: American bases

Want to see Twilight but you are over 1,000 miles away from an English movie theater? Need a 2001 National Geographic documentary? Well, if the Iraqi DVD Pirate does not have it, he can go online and burn you a copy for five dollars. These pirates work in groups and will live on bases like Iraqi salesmen. Most have a fair understanding of English but have a great knowledge of [American] pop culture. Trustworthiness is determined by Americans by the basis of the DVD's quality. Some are poor video camera feed while others were produced by professional equipment in a movie theater. The best quality is the straight DVD rip. There are legitimate American DVDs for sale on base but those are full price. The Iraqi DVD pirate is the unchallenged master of his field.

Iraqi Seamster [tailor]
Who: Iraqi (and some Indian) men with knowledge of the sewing machine
Goods: Anything that can be sewn
Where: American bases

Iraqi sewers have broad appeal with a higher priced product. Want an Iraqi flag with your name and dates of service on it? Sure thing! Want backpack with military camouflage and your favorite football team's logo on it? No problem. These men show that there is profit and no shame in male sewing. They work in groups with only one person who needs to know English. Some Indians have come over as well to earn money with their skills. Officers, group leaders, and the memento seeking enlisted man are all primary customers of the Iraqi seamster.

The Turks
Who: Turkish traders
Goods: If it is expensive, they have it
Where: American bases

The Turks are an outsider but they are on top of the hierarchy. Leather coats; $500 handmade marble chess sets; jewelry; and fine carpets are their goods. The Turks occupy a sort of mixed ground. They have the Middle Eastern background but many would be best defined as European based on their clothing (especially the liberated women). Some Turkish stories have Iraqis who help the customers look for things while the Turks handle the money. Every American who is on a base knows that when one goes shopping at the Turkish store, one wants to buy some fine gifts.

Under the Full Moon

[Editor's note: Catholicgauze emails from Iraq...]

The moon is closer than it has been in the last fifteen years due to its elliptical orbit. Combining this with the fact that it is full and the sands of Iraq here are white makes tonight a very bright one. I have done a bit of walking in between briefings and it is the first night here that I have not needed a flashlight. Usually the dead of night is pitch black, truly black. However, now I have a long range of sight and can even make out a few colors that are usually lost to night's overriding hue. Many stars are also blocked out in the moon's light pollution. Orion is still visible as he crosses the night sky and so are a few meteorites. It is very still out here. Almost no sounds what so ever. Just me and the wind in the leaves of the tropical trees.

Biking in Iraq

Problem: There is point A where I am at. Then there is point B which is too far to walk.
Solution: Bike it.

I got a bike and now I can go on the hardened sand surfaces of Iraq. The thin, white layer of powdery sand is not a problem as long as I go fast enough. I was so excited when I got the bike because I love cycling so much and its a great chance to see the outdoors. Nature on the other hand was not so cooperative. First it started to rain in the desert. Not too hard but the white powder became a thin layer of mud. However, it was still ridable and the bike has mud guards over the wheels. Then, a cold front with wind came. It is a cold night in the lower fifties with the possibility of upper forties. Good thing there was rain otherwise I could be outside in a cold duststorm.

Catholicgauze makes it to Iraq

Hi everyone! I managed to get to Iraq safely. I am now exploring what little bit of the desert environment I can. The Walis, dryriverbeds in Arabic, are really neat to see. These things are dozens, if not hundreds, of miles long and can stretch to well over a milewide. Nights can get cool but not yet truly cold. Meanwhile the days are not that bad since they only get up into the 70s. I will try to write more later, but I just wanted to keep you informed.

A Note Before I Go

Many times I have been asked by nervous friends and family whether or not I can be forced into staying Iraq longer. Usually this is quickly followed up by a comment more or less saying they are sorry I am forced to go. The expression on the questioner's face is always shock when I tell them I volunteered to go to Iraq. I tell them truthfully I hope for the short four month position but would not mind if it is extended by my choice.

I am about to leave the comfort and safety of the United States of America for the deserts, villages, and cities of the Republic of Iraq. I go because my God-given gift of a geographical mind can help improve and safe the lives of Americans and Coalition troops, NGO volunteers, and Iraqis. I pray that my labor can produce rewards that will comfort those who need to be comforted.

I know that I do not go alone. Many from all over the world; from the farthest rural corners to the largest cities have and are coming to Iraq to work with those brave patriots who put their lives on the line to restore the greatest that once resided in the green valleys of Mesopotamia.

I know that the odds of death are present but they are small. However, if I am fall far from my home know that I died so others may live. Too many good people have already met this fate. They are the true heroes. I am not worried for my physical self, my family and I like all families have known too much death, and I know that one day I myself will die. No doubt about that. My soul I pray for constantly so that God may forgive me. I am unworthy of the gifts and love he has allowed me to have. My big worry is for those who I love. I love you. You know who you are. I will always be with you whether I come back from Iraq or not.

Know I prepare to go out. My flight is soon. I will do my best to keep in touch with you. Geography has played a role in many of the happiest moments of my life. Whether it be learning it, teaching it, exploring it with my family, or blogging about with all of you. Now is the time that I can use geography to help Iraq. Now is the time for me truly to preform. Now is the time for me to leave.

Anthrax Causes Blogging Delay

Anthrax is a particularly nasty disease found in the Bible (Exodus 9: 9-11); all throughout the world, and in my left arm. The nasty buggers are the last part of the vaccination process before I ship out for Iraq. Besides swelling into a four-inch blight, the vaccine's side effects are generating heat on the wound and making me sleepy. However, I dare not sleep because of bad fever dreams.

According to this medical map anthrax has receded from the first world but still manages to run wild throughout the third world. The reason is because the disease is commonly spread through livestock. First world farmers can afford vaccines that stop the disease. However, lack of money and general dirty living in the third world allows for anthrax to thrive.

Another main reason I had to get the shot was because of weaponization. The spores that cause anthrax can live hundreds of years and are easily available if one knows where to look. It is a messy process that can easily effect the maker but a crude anthrax weapon can be made from household equipment. And a black market somewhere might have the weaponized version for sale for the right price.

Scary little tidbit, the island where the Soviet Union had their anthrax stockpile was in the Aral Sea and now is a peninsula. Fortunately American scientists managed to destroy the stockpile remains... after it was abandoned for a decade!

Catholicgauze Still on Track for Iraq

Hey that rhymes. Still on target for going to Iraq. I will post more information as I can. During my time there I will have weekly "Classicgauze" posts reposting the best and overlooked entries from January 2006 up until present! I will try to give periodic updates but cannot promise anything.

The Ballad of Catholicgauze

My first Humvee convoy ride is going smoothly. Knife 7 is composed of four Humvees doing a routine trip from our base to headquarters. My job is a chimera of things. Man the radio, do the geospatial data, and be map reader. I am right next to our commander.

Over the radio there is chatter here and there.

Voodoo 7 to Blackjack 6, we are passed checkpoint one, over
Voodoo 2 to Blackjack 6, holding up for resupply, over

All is well. The sun is out and it is not as hot as yesterday. I am setting in back with the commander, John. He had my position in the past. We also talk about his experience during the start of the Iraq War. He fought at Saddam's presidential palace and described the combat to me. Too many good men were wounded. When he was done he turned to the stories of captured Sudanese, Yemenis, and even a French jihadist who Saddam invited over to defend Baathist Iraq against the Coalition invasion.

Voodoo 7 to Blackjack 6, we are crossing checkpoint two, over

I go on the radio and say:

Knife 7 to Blackjack 6, passing Voodoo 2, over.

As I finish the radio loading static comes through. In between the digital sounds I hear gunfire and Voodoo 7 announcing an ambush. The word I dread is announced: causalities. Then silence.

Blackjack 6 to Knife 7, over
Knife 7 to Blackjack 6, over
Blackjack 6 to Knife 7, over
Knife 7 to Blackjack 6, over
Blackjack 6 to Knife 7, if you can hear me respond, over

Blackjack 6 does not hear me. I bang the radio and jam the buttons. They hear me now as I yell the response.

Knife 7 to Blackjack 6, I read you, over
Blackjack 6 to Knife 7. Knife 7, go to WB 1234 4321 and provide cover and aid for Voodoo 7, over.
Wilco!

A quick adjustment and we are on our way. John tells me to stay close to him. All I can think of are the stories of how insurgents aim for medics then radio guys. Dang.

The convoy roles up to a burnt Humvee with fortunately no one in it. John and I jump out and begin assessing the causalities. Five total and with us running around there is much confusion. Blood, guts, and bones are everywhere. I get out the list of codes and listen to John give the orders. I prepare my list so I can just yell out the medivac instructions. Our convoy badges people up and prepares them for evac.

Blackjack 6 repeatedly calls for more information on the scene. I have to yell "Wait out!" to be me time to get an accurate read. All the sudden another convoy jumps in our frequency with the most banal chatter about breakfast.

BREAK BREAK BREAK! I tell them to shut up. Lives our in our, my, hands.

Knife 7 to Blackjack 6, over
Knife 7 to Blackjack 6, over
Knife 7 to Blackjack 6, over
Knife 7 to Blackjack 6, over

Blackjack 6 cannot receive.

Knife 7 to any listening station, over!
Knife 7 to any listening station, over!

Silence.

Voodoo 2 to Knife 7, we hear you. Give use your list and we will relay to Blackjack 6, over.

A stream of Whiskey Bravos, alphas, charlies, five, six, 1, deltas come streaming out.

Voodoo 2 to Knife 7, we received your communication and will relay, over.

John orders me to begin policing the area to make sure we leave nothing behind. We cannot let equipment be used against us or the civilian population. What a day for a geographer!

Voodoo 2 to Knife 7, Blackjack 6 has received. Get to point WB 2345 5432 and await chopper.

John is standing away from me on the other side of the area the order to leave. Our Humvee begins to pull off before I can reach it. Fortunately they spot me running and let me get in. We leave the area and head out.

Blackjack 6 to Knife 7. Good job. Training is over. Head back to base to be debriefed, out.

The day is ending where we are in Maryland. I am sick in my stomach.

Snake Eatergauze: Days 4-5

Day 4
Mission: Qualify on the M9 and M11

Driving deep into the heart of Appalachia we went to an outdoor shooting range that nobody could find even with they knew where they were going. Shooting drills were done with the M9 Beretta and the M11 SIG P229. I qualified with ease and advanced to moving drills. Having large hands I enjoyed the M9 over the M11 (the M11 also lacks a safety) while everyone else preferred the M11.

Day 5
Mission: Instinctive Driving Course

Before lunch were fun drills with driving around cones at high speed. Nothing could beat what happened next. My instructor was in the driver's seat, two classmates in back, and myself at shotgun. In the simulated downtown Baghdad all was calm. All the sudden two cars drive up next to us at full speed and fire paintballs at us. The instructor plays dead and slams on the gas. I then have to undo my seatbelt, push the teacher against his door, and drive from the middle with my left foot working the pedals. Meanwhile, the two cars chase use and try to box use into corners. We escaped but I simulated vegetable stands went flying.

Postscript
Mission: Enjoy dinner with former National Geographic interns

After a hell ride back to Washington, DC I got to a gathering of former intern friends about five minutes late (no time to change). My Iraq trip was a main topic because I was still wearing my training DCU. It was fun to catch up with everyone.

Going back to the Pentagon City metro someone yelled at me in an aggressive voice, "Hey! What's the deal with the uniform?!?" Clearly the man had issues with the symbolism the uniform carries. So, with my friends, I had several choices 1) confront him 2) try to persuade him to my point of view or 3) say "Exactly, what is the deal?" pop a stick of gum in my mouth, and walk away. I picked three. My friends were upset with the guy but I received praise from people saying how well I handled the situation.

I am going to Iraq to help out those who are oppressed, to improve the lives of Iraqis, and protect the liberties all people are entitled to. That includes the right to be a jerk.

Snake Eatergauze: Days 1-3 and Iraq News

While the first two days were full of PowerPoint there was some fun in training.

Day 1
Mission: Scope out hotel without being located by patrols.

Everyone scattered around the hotel. Some hide in plain site on benches right by the front door while others milled across the street in a restaurant and gas station. All of them were caught. Everyone but your's truly. I ran nearly half a mile to the top of hill in a Byzantine Catholic nunnery campus. People avoided this spot because the hill was hard to see because of a line of trees. However, the hill gave me an excellent hidden spot to watch the patrols pick off the team one by one.

Day 2
Mission: Drive around the hills and mountains spotting "hostile" followers

Some were good. Some were bad. But if there is one thing that can defeat a well planned stragegy it is incompetence. The last quater of the 90 minute journey we managed to lose all our tails because we got lost. Another team had fun messing with some of the less experienced tails but forcing them into "Do Not Enters" and following the followers. The organizers of the training did not appreciate that.

Day 3
Mission: Learn Krav Maga - The IDF Martial Art

A bloody hand and aching muscles did not help Catholicgauze defeat the ex-Navy Seal instructor but they are the price I paid for a oh-so-brief training lesson on self-defense. So in the event when I am in Iraq and away from help and away from a gun (a disaster which probably would not end well) I stand a chance at still winning.

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Iraq News
When I am in Iraq blogging will be less frequent and subject to "review" by others. However, while anything I create due to my experience over there has to be reviewed as well, expect a book about the how geography helps out in the War on Terrorism! The book will be finished after my time in Iraq is over.

Catholicgauze Goes Snake Eater

Catholicgauze will be getting some seriously good and fun training for my Iraq assignment. Blogging should continue and this time I will also blog about my experience too! So stay tuned this week for stories and maybe a hint or two of what is to come!

Big News - Upcoming Geographic Travel with Catholicgauze!

This fall the blog will take a temporary new turn. While doing my best to update you all in the world of geography on a close to daily basis there will be a new feature. This fall Catholicgauze will be in Iraq. Look for posts concerning life in Iraq, the geography of Iraq, and the geography of the war.

168,800 Square Miles and Only One Geography Blogger to Cover It